'Poncey, chefy food'? The UK is full of eateries that Delia Smith would love

The writer has laid into the trend for ornate dishes at British restaurants – but cooking rooted in traditional technique is thriving

Famously, in 2005, with her beloved Norwich City trailing, the football club’s joint majority shareholder, Delia Smith, strode on to the pitch at half-time and attempted to rally the fans.

“Where are you? Let’s be ’avin you,” demanded the “sainted Delia” in a hitherto unimaginably rambunctious outburst.

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